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encoding Fashion, decoding Identity: Patrick Kelly’s Southern Queer Esthetics Through Stuart Hall’s Theory of Representation

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Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture 2025年

作者： O’Connell, Mark Joseph Seneca Polytechnic Toronto Canada

This article explores the intersection of Southern Black identity, Queer expression, and Parisian luxury fashion through the work of Patrick Kelly, a groundbreaking fashion designer who rose to fame and acclaim during the 1980s. Utilizing Stuart Hall’s encoding/decoding model, the study examines how Kelly’s designs function as a form of cultural discourse. His use of exaggerated bows, mismatched buttons, and racialized iconography both celebrated and critiqued dominant fashion norms, embedding his garments with layered meanings that shifted depending on audience reception. Through an object-based analysis of select garments from The Museum at FIT, this article considers how Kelly’s Southern upbringing, personal identity, and Queer positionality shaped his playful yet subversive esthetic. His career trajectory, from Mississippi to Paris, exemplifies how marginalized creators navigate and disrupt hegemonic fashion spaces. Ultimately, Kelly’s legacy underscores how Black and Queer designers have redefined the parameters of high fashion;challenging the industry’s racial and gendered exclusions while expanding the possibilities of self-representation and cultural resistance. © 2025 Informa UK Limited, trading as Taylor & Francis Group.

关键词： 1980’s fashion cultural capital encoding/decoding fashion & aids fashion history object-based research Patrick Kelly queer fashion

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Autoencoder-based Data Compression Model Experiment for Semantic Communication 38

Autoencoder-based Data Compression Model Experiment for Sema...

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38th International Conference on Information Networking (ICOIN)

作者： Oh, Jinyoung Choi, Yunkyung Oh, Chanyoung Na, Woongsoo Kongju Natl Univ Dept Software Cheonan South Korea

ISBN: (纸本)9798350330946;9798350330953

In recent years, the convergence of neural network architectures and semantic communication has led to innovative strides in representation learning. This paper explores the application of autoencoders, a subset of neural networks designed for unsupervised learning, in encoding and decoding data to capture semantic nuances. Additionally, we discuss future research directions, proposing a semantic communication model learned from time series data and presenting experimental results. Our experiments involve encoding and decoding time series data using autoencoders, evaluating the feasibility of integrating autoencoder technology into semantic communication. Following the experiment, our proposed model exhibited a loss rate of approximately 0.15-0.2% for the time series data. This outcome represents a notable result, especially when compared to the compression rate of transmission data. It hints at the potential for a future autoencoder-based semantic communication model.

关键词： Semantic communication autoencoder encoding/decoding data compression

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Cultural considerations and rigorous qualitative methods in public diplomacy research

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PLACE BRANDING AND PUBLIC DIPLOMACY 2022年第3期18卷 228-239页

作者： Arceneaux, Phillip Bier, Lindsey M. Miami Univ Oxford OH 45056 USA Univ Southern Calif Los Angeles CA 90007 USA

This article examines how qualitative approaches to human-centered inquiry benefit public diplomacy (PD) scholarship. It argues that rigorous qualitative methods improve the frameworks guiding PD research. Tendencies for miscommunication permeate the encoding and decoding communication processes in international/intercultural contexts, with PD often transcending cultural boundaries and national borders. This article cautions against assuming conceptual, measurement, and semiotic equivalence of constructs and variables, based on influences from culture and language. Furthermore, the article advocates mixed methods, explicating how rigorous qualitative methods can better contextualize the statistics of quantitative methods, leading to more comprehensive understandings of PD.

关键词： Public diplomacy Qualitative methods Intercultural communication encoding/decoding

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Picturing Opaque Power: How Conspiracy Theorists Construct Oppositional Videos on YouTube

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SOCIAL MEDIA + SOCIETY 2022年第2期8卷

作者： Grusauskaite, Kamile Harambam, Jaron Aupers, Stef Katholieke Univ Leuven Leuven Belgium Katholieke Univ Leuven Media Culture Inst Media Studies Leuven Belgium Vrije Univ Amsterdam Participatory AI Athena Inst Amsterdam Netherlands

Conspiracy theories were once perceived as delusions of individuals on the fringes of society, but have become commonplace in mainstream culture. Today, they are produced, consumed, and circulated on various online media environments. From memes on 4chan, QAnon influencers on Instagram, to flat earth or antivaxx videos on YouTube, modern-day conspiracy culture embodies compelling mediated images and narratives that are composed of various audiovisual materials. Building on Stuart Hall's encoding/decoding model, and Henry Jenkins' notion of "participatory culture," we analyze these audiovisual conspiracy theories as "oppositional readings" of hegemonic truths. More concretely, we analyze how conspiracy theorists reconstruct various audiovisual (mass-media) materials into streamlined narratives on YouTube videos to picture opaque power. Based on an in-depth qualitative analysis of 24 conspiracy theory videos, strategically selected from a larger sample of 200, we present three major categories of audiovisual narrative construction in conspiracy videos on YouTube: (1) Simulating: using fiction, religious and cultural images and narratives to render images of events otherwise invisible;(2) Deciphering: decoding hidden messages by "closely reading" images and looking for hidden symbolism;(3) Exhibiting: exposing information, research, and images that are "hidden in plain sight" but point to conspiracy. This article contributes to the growing body of literature on conspiracy theories by showing how they are not just texts, but should better be seen as media practices involving the recontextualizing of (mass)media material into new audiovisual conspiracy theory narratives. This shapes not just their content and form, but also their place in public discourse.

关键词： audiovisual communication conspiracy theories encoding/decoding YouTube

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A Study on Potential Health Issues Behind the Popularity of “Mukbang” in China

A Study on Potential Health Issues Behind the Popularity of ...

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作者： Wang, Shan Middle Tennessee State University

学位级别：M.S.

Mukbang, in which people broadcast themselves eating large quantities, started to enter the Chinese market around 2014 and gradually became popular. In this thesis, by analyzing the encodings of mukbang videos on Kuaishou, the shared themes across videos were discovered. Also, the decodings of mukbang videos by viewers were examined so as to figure out their different attitudes and emotions toward mukbang videos and mukbangers. Findings suggested that mukbang videos and its viewers have built up a complex relationship. Pursuing the thrill of hunger, vicarious eating, emotional establishment, and relieving anorexia were found as main reasons the viewers choose to watch mukbang videos. However, some viewers also expressed their shock, even disbelief on unusual food intake. Others expressed their desires on owning a slim figure that never becoming overweight even overeating. This thesis also argued that mukbang has indeed caused a certain harmful impact on the perception of eating norms and eating behaviors of some viewers.

关键词： mukbang mukbang videos encoding/decoding eating norms social media health issues

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On the further development of Paulo Freire's principle of coding/decoding in participatory social space research: the example of the analysis of space-appropriation by young people in a district center

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OSTERREICHISCHE ZEITSCHRIFT FUER SOZIOLOGIE 2019年第3期44卷 27-44页

作者： May, Michael Hsch RheinMain Promot Zentrum Soziale Arbeit Postfach 3251 D-65022 Wiesbaden Germany

In the context of the rekindled debate on participatory research, Freire's concept of "thematic inquiry" and its dialectically iterative principle of coding/decoding is recalled, which is related to Lefebvre's "strategic hypothesis" approach. Against this background, a concept of participatory social space research is outlined, which uses photographs from different perspectives of space segments and their use in a dynamic of Freire's dialogic principle of coding/decoding to reconstruct spatial interest orientations of users of arrangements of socio-pedagogical local actions.

关键词： Participatory social space research Socio-pedagogical local action encoding/decoding Strategic hypotheses

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Narratives of Canadian Identity at the Ultimate Fighting Championship

Narratives of Canadian Identity at the Ultimate Fighting Cha...

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作者： Jared V. Walters University of Western Ontario

学位级别：博士

The purpose of this dissertation was to examine the use of representations and symbols of Canadian identity within the event coverage produced by the Ultimate Fighting Cham- pionship Corporation, in the context of its two key events, Ultimate Fighting Champion- ship, and Fight Night, produced in Canada. To establish the historical context in which the sport developed in Canada, a narrative historiography of the political and legal struggles that led to the legalization and increas- ing popularity of Mixed Martial Arts, and the UFCC's version of the sport, in particular. This first major part of the dissertation is contained in Study 1. The second major part of the dissertation consists of two interrelated studies (Studies 2 and 3), both focussing on narratives of Canadian identity produced by the UFCC in its main event and related coverage. Using Stuart Hall concept of encoding/decoding, Study 2 investigated the UFCC's broadcast and narrative production as the encoding stage of the communication process. Study 3, conversely, investigated the responses and comments produced by the UFC fan base, in response to the UFCC's coverage. Certain fan blogs and web sites were investigated as the expression of the fan base perspective. These responses were investigated as the decoding stage, in Hall's conceptualization of the communication process. The findings from studies 2 and 3 show that the strategic use of specific themes of Canadian identity invoked in the context of UFC event coverage, was to a large extent accepted positively by the segment of the fan base investigated here; however, opposi- tional or negotiated readings of the UFCC's coverage was significantly evident in the fan blog responses as well.

关键词： Ultimate Fighting Championship UFC Ultimate Fighting Championship Corporation UFCC Mixed Martial Arts MMA national identity Canadian identity encoding/decoding sport media

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Hall's encoding/ decoding and Its Influence on Media Study

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青春岁月 2013年第10期 393-394+392页

作者：周月四川外语学院成都学院

As an outstanding representative of British Cultural Studies, Stuart Hall has long been occupied as the leader of the Birmingham Centre for Contemporary Cultural Studies (CCCS) in its theories, thoughts and factual work. He has been concentrated on the critical topics such as culture, ideology, and identity. In the field of mass communication, major contribution of Hall lies in his attempts to connect the ideological encoding of cultural formation to the decoding position of the audiences. His thought develops the critical theories of mass communication. Given the importance of Hall’s role in the contemporary cultural studies and his significant contribution to mass media research, it is worthwhile for us to probe deeper into his thought to explore valuable contents. In this essay, it mainly concerns Hall’s new model of encoding/decoding and the theory of the audience.

关键词： encoding/decoding audience media study

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Transnational cult paratexts: exploring audience readings of Tartan’s Asia Extreme brand

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Transnational Cinemas 2017年第1期8卷 35-48页

作者： Pett, Emma School of Art Media and American Studies University of East Anglia Norwich United Kingdom

Recent scholarship on the branding of contemporary cult Asian cinema for western audiences has frequently drawn on Said’s seminal treatise Orientalism as a means to critique sensationalist marketing materials. Whilst the excessive character of paratexts produced by film distributors such as Tartan clearly facilitates such readings, in this article I argue that this oft-repeated criticism becomes problematic when employed indiscriminately to theorise, by extension, the audiences for these films. Drawing on a recent empirical study of responses to Asian Extreme cinema and its distribution in the UK and North America, I offer an intervention in this debate by constructing a more nuanced interpretation of the ways in which cult audiences articulate their attraction to cinematic representations of cultural difference. © 2016 The Author(s). Published by Informa UK Limited, trading as Taylor & Francis Group.

关键词： affect agency Asia Extreme audience studies encoding/decoding orientalism paratexts

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Media of the Everyday. The Contribution of European Ethnology to the Field of Media and Digital Anthropology

ZEITSCHRIFT FUR VOLKSKUNDE

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ZEITSCHRIFT FUR VOLKSKUNDE 2019年第1期115卷 3-26页

作者： Bareither, Christoph Humboldt Univ Inst Europa Ethnol Mohrenstr 40-41 D-10117 Berlin Germany

Digital media have become an integral part of everyday life. Media-related research within European ethnology is characterized by the fact that it penetrates the interconnections of media and everyday life ethnographically. In order to substantiate this competence, the article outlines a series of conceptual approaches that all help to better understand and ethnographically explore the everydayness of media. This includes an eye for media practices and the interwoven, incorporated knowledge;the analysis of the potentials and limitations of practice inscribed in media (affordances);access to media infrastructure processes;the interplay of encoding and decoding;and last but not least, the ethnographic understanding of sensory and emotional processes in relation to media. In summary, these concepts provide a discipline-specific perspective on "media of the everyday" that allows to emphasize and to make productive the specific contribution of European ethnology to the transdisciplinary field of media and digital anthropology.

关键词： digital media everyday life media practices affordances infrastructures encoding/decoding emotions

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